Litchfield County Sketches
By Newell Meeker Calhoun
Litchfield County University Club
1906
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III EVEN those who are well acquainted with the region of which we are writing do not ordinarily associate the Farmington
River with Litchfield County. Its wild beauty, however, is very largely on its upper reaches, and within our borders.
The gorge below New Hartford, known as Satan’s Kingdom, with the railroad tracks cut into the solid walls on either
side, and the river rushing and swirling over its rocky bed, is a bit of Colorado in miniature. Above the same
town the river widens out, because of the extensive mill dam, and is bordered by low-lying meadows, with fringes
of trees and a background of wavy hills. These meadows are dotted with elms, whose wide-reaching, drooping branches
shelter herds of cattle taking their noontime rest. At Pleasant Valley, three miles farther up, the hills have
grown steeper, the river more noisy, and the scenery more rugged. From thence to Riverton is a most delightful
drive, with pleasant surprises at every turn of the road. Sometimes you come out into the open, and have a magnificent
view of hemlock sprinkled hills, which in Autumn show off the oaks, birches and hard maples to wonderful advantage.
Again the carriage passes noiselessly over a thick bed of pine needles, while the pines overhead sing the old time
dirges which they sang to Indian mourners in the long ago. Now you look upon an ancient mill, almost hidden by
the trees, and again up a mountainside, down which a noisy brook is leaping. Another turn of the river and the
roa.d, and you look up the broad stream for a half mile or more, as the water tumbles over huge boulders or makes
frothy eddies under their dark shadows, with nothing to do the livelong day but to enjoy itself. Here the birds
come to drink, and pay for their refreshment with a song. Down through the dark woods a herd of deer have often
been seen, pausing on the bank of the river to listen for any sounds betokening danger. These beautiful animals
are multiplying rapidly in the county, and, being protected from the hunters, are becoming more and more accustomed
to the sight of men. They are often seen in the pastures feeding with the cows, as quietly as if they were a part
of the herd. Driving or walking along the unfrequented roads has, besides the interest of the landscape, the expectation
of seeing not only deer crossing the way, but also many other wild animals and birds rarely seen on travelled highways.
Gray squirrels, rabbits, woodchucks, foxes, partridges, pheasants, all take a look at you, and if your eyes are
sharp and your feet light you may have a good look at them. “Clear placid Highland! thy contrasted lake,
The Upper Reaches of the Farmington
At Riverton they used to make the river work, fashioning scythes for the farmers and making paper with which to
wrap up the sales of country and city stores; but the old mills are most of them silent now, the moss growing over
their unused wheels. These scythes were in great demand in the old days, before mowing machines were invented.
Here at Riverton lived for many years a man who sold the produce of one of the mills, and afterward became the
honored Governor of the State. Deserted stores and closed houses and churches with small congregations tell of
the inability of such remote places to compete with manufacturing centres along the line of the railroads. The
hum of machinery has given place to the more musical plash of water over the darn, as it idles away the long Summer
days. Sandy Brook flows into the Farmington here. Its name is prosaic, but not so the stream itself. Rising in
Massachusetts, it appears in our county as a sizable trout stream, and one of the best if times and seasons are
observed. Through the woods of North Colebrook and Colebrook it takes its course, through lovely wooded valleys,
alongside of the country roads, under picturesque bridges that tremble with the weight of horses and carriage.
In the early Spring it is a raging torrent, while in the late Surmner it is a quiet, sedate stream, on its good
behavior. He who has spent a day in the month of May fishing along its banks has indeed drunk of the very elixir
of life. A flush of green was on the birches, and the fragrance of the flowers and all growing things in the air.
The birds just back from the Southland were trying all their new songs, and fairly beside themselves with joy to
be again in Northern woods. There were love ditties in the air, and love making in the trees, with the warm sunshine
ifitering through the branches, making the trout lively and playful. Sandy Brook can be followed long distances
without sight of human habitation. What a delightful place to forget the rushing, maddening course of things in
the busy world, and have blessed communion with Nature, that dear mother of us all!
From Riverton to New Boston, along the Farmington, there are revealed to Nature lovers new beauties at every turn,
showing the infinite possibilities of a stream born among the hills. As you go farther north toward the Berkshires,
the landscape is more broken, with hills that are nearly high enough and rocky enough to be called mountains. The
road takes you at times under great forest trees, but the wandering sawmills are rapidly making the beautiful woods
into lumber. Shaded drives in Litchfield County are likely to exist in memory only unless something can be done
for the preservation of the forests. It is no uncommon thing for farms to be sold .for what the lumber is worth,
and then when the last stick of wood that is of any value has been cut the farm is abandoned.
Returning to Riverton, one should follow up Mad River, through Robertsville to Tunxis Falls, and through the gorge
where the electricity for Winsted is generated. There is a drop here in the river of perhaps one hundred feet within
a half mile. When the river is full banked it is a beautiful sight to see it rush over the rocks, and noisily and
at a breakneck pace seek the river below. Commercialism never makes Nature more interesting, but takes away her
lovely charm in part. Her beauty is always accentuated by solitude.
He who discovers the work of Nature unaided by man, just as it has come from the hand of the Creator, has seen
beauty indeed. Explorers and pathfinders have been wonderfully favored. The track of human beings, the mark of
axe or pick, wheel or hoof, that tells of the near presence of man, takes away something of the charm which Nature
in her solitude must always possess.
Mad River is the clew which, if followed, will take you to the busiest place in all the Farmington Valley, if not
the most beautiful. Winsted outrivals ancient Rome in one respect, for, while Rome was built on seven hills, Winsted
can boast of well-nigh seventeen. It is decidedly a Swiss town, clinging to hillsides which rise in every direction.
Few of the streets are straight, unless one should say that some of them are straight up and down. The townis better
adapted for coasting than for automobiling. As in ancient Rome, so in Winsted you may hear the plash of water everywhere.
The most excellent water power—the pride of the borough—makes possible its supply for drinking purposes and its
well equipped factories, wherein almost everything is manufactured. The water is stored far up in the mountains
in an artificially constructed reservoir, and in Crystal and Highland Lakes, which receive the overflow through
a tunnel in the mountains, the gift of an enterprising citizen. From Highland Lake the water falls near a hundred
feet to the level of the river, furnishing water power all the way down. The course of Mad River determined the
windings of Main Street, which curves about in nearly the shape of a horseshoe. Mills have sprung up along its
en tire course. In one of these factories pins enough are made in a single week to supply every man, woman and
child in the United States with one. Others pi’oduce underclothing to keep people warm, jackknives to do their
whittling, tools to build their houses, lamps to give them light, chairs for them to sit in, household hardware
to make their homes beautiful, knives and forks to eat with, leather to bind their books and help to make organ
music by furnishing material for the bellows, clocks to keep accurate time for them, and when time is no more for
them shrouds and coffin trimmings are produced for their burial. While all this work is being done, the water dashing
merrily over flumes and dams makes blithe music day and night.
Benevolent citizens have by gifts and bequests for their native town made it possible to build churches, the Gilbert
High School, with its magnificent endowment of more than a half million dollars; the Gilbert Home for Orphaned
Children, with an endowment as large, or larger—a model institution of its kind; a hospital with the finest location
in the State; two soldiers’ monuments, and numerous other improvements, of which the town is justly proud. From
the Soldiers’ Monument on a hill in the heart of the town a fine bronze soldier looks down by day and night, and
when the darkness comes on the monument is lighted by electricity, indicating that the patriotism of a community
is a light illuminating the darkest night. Three church edifices of granite, beautiful without and within, testify
to the faith and works of the people, and that they believe that the church is in the world to stay. Two public
libraries, one at either end of the town, furnish ample facilities for reading and study. The healthfulness of
Winsted is borne witness to by the fact that in the Second Congregational Church there are living at this writing
five people who have passed their ninetieth birthday——one of them his ninety-eighth— whose combined ages are four
hundred and sixty-nine years. The drives about Winsted are unsurpassed and of wonderful variety. Go in any direction
and you can make no mistake, whether it is about Highland Lake, over the Winchester and Goshen hills to New Boston,
or through sleepy Colebrook village, or to Norfolk, with its beautiful residences and its commanding views. Pure
air, kaleidoscopic scenery and well cared for roads make out of doors life a joy and delight.
Highland Lake, to which reference has been made, lies just above the borough of Winsted, is three miles long, and
has a charming driveway clear about it. It is essentially an Adirondack lake, surrounded by woods and hills, with
cottages scattered along its shores. Sitting on the broad veranda of one of these, with the moonlight reflected
in the water, those words of Byron, written of Lake Leman, might apply:
With the wild world I dwelt in, is a thing
‘Which warns me with its stillness, to forsake
Earth’s troubled waters for a purer spring.”
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